Introduction

Our visit to Anguilla this year was another of our daytrips while staying on St. Martin and our companions for the excursion were Marc and Kristin Petrelluzzi, owners of the hotels L'Esplanade and Le Petit in Grand Case.  They are extraordinarily nice people and exceptionally good company which made the trip all the more enjoyable.

The primary objectives were for Sandra and Kristin to have a decadently relaxing and pampered time at CuisinArt's fabulous Venus Spa, for Ed and Marc to see how many beers they could consume while the girls did the spa thing plus allow Marc to get some possible ideas for an addition to one of their hotel properties and for us all to visit the Dune Preserve.  Those objectives were well accomplished!

The weather, as proved to be the case for our 19 days on nearby St. Martin, was very mixed with only intermittent bouts of sunshine and those bright blue skies which can so perfectly accentuate the unique beauty of Anguilla.  It certainly proved to be a challenge from a photography standpoint, as is evident from the pictures which follow (each can be "clicked" to see a larger version in a new window).

Passage to Anguilla

We rendezvoused at the Marigot ferry dock and, as things would have it, were a few minutes late to catch the imminently departing boat which was already boarding with a full load of passengers.  But we weren't concerned because we knew the next departure would be in 30 minutes and it gave us a little time to talk further about our plans for the day and to explore the immediate vicinity.

The ferry terminal itself was quite small and more accurately described as an open shed.  There was a tiny refreshment store tucked into one corner, a few benches, the agent's booth and that was it.  Immediately adjacent to the facility we could see a much more substantial building being constructed which we surmised would be a new terminal.

Once we began the embarkation proceedings for the next ferry we realized there basically were no formalities involved.  One simply joined the line, entered a little information on a passenger manifest including residence, nationality and passport number, and paid the departure fee of $2.25 per person.  They didn't even bother to look at our travel documents.  The next ferry arrived, disgorged its passengers and then we clambered aboard and seated ourselves in the enclosed cabin.  After the moorings were released a pre-recorded safety announcement was played and we were underway through the harbor headed toward the open channel.  One of the crew made the rounds collecting the $10 per person one way fee which left us wondering what the procedure would be if they discovered someone did not have sufficient funds for the passage.  Toss them overboard?

Once the harbor area was cleared the sea became progressively more choppy and the boat was pitching and rolling a fair amount.  The hardy (foolhardy?) souls who thought they would brave the less than auspicious elements topside for the trip were soon hurriedly entering the enclosed cabin quite drenched with salt spray.  Arrival at Blowing Point was exactly 30 minutes after the lines were cast off at Marigot.  We suspect the travel time could have been a bit less if the sea and wind had been more cooperative.

We disembarked and followed the line of passengers to the terminal building there which was quite a decent facility.  Inside, Immigration officers carefully were examining travel documents and matching them to the ferry's manifest.  The officers were thorough, very professional and polite.  Once outside, we grabbed the first taxi available and as the others were loading into it Ed spotted Frank Webster, our favorite driver from last year, off in the distance.  He walked over to Frank who immediately recognized him and in short order asked "Where's Sandra?" as he looked about for her.  No question about Frank's priorities - he was insistent he be able to see her again.  Consequently, Ed led him to Sandra who already was ensconced in the waiting taxi.  She, of course, was delighted to see him and chat, even though it unfortunately could be only for a few minutes - the first appointment time at CuisinArt was drawing nigh.

The Greg Norman-Designed Golf Course

As we neared CuisinArt we passed the new golf course under construction and asked the driver to slow so we could gawk a bit.  We were amazed and impressed at the massive amount of nursery stock we could see assembled for later use in the landscape.  From that initial view and later in the day when we were able to see the course layout from two different high vantage points, we can only say it will be quite spectacular when finished.

During this trip and at subsequent times we noted the diversity of opinion about whether the addition of the course would be a "good thing" for the island.  Our current impression is most Anguillians welcome the development, particularly because of the prospect of more jobs and the overall positive impact they expect it will have on tourism for the island.  The contrary perspective mostly expressed by long time visitors is that it will somehow spoil or detract from the character of the island.  Not being the least interested in golf ourselves, we still will offer the observation that we easily can envision hordes of golfers making a daytrip from St. Martin to avail themselves of what surely will be a magnificent course.  We also think this will result in enhanced patronage of the Anguilla ferries since the trip is short and inexpensive, and the craft are well suited to accommodate a golfer's paraphernalia.

CuisinArt http://www.cuisinartresort.com/

We want to begin by saying we found CuisinArt as impressive as ever.  The grounds, buildings and staff are an absolute delight!  CuisinArt certainly is one of the most attractive upscale resorts with incredibly professional and attentive staff we've encountered in the Caribbean, Bahamas and Mexico.

As we hurriedly made our way through the reception area and across the grounds to the Venus Spa because we were fast approaching the first appointment for Sandra and Kristin, various staff members along the way were calling out to us "Hello Ed and Sandra!  Welcome back." or "Good to see you again."  Talk about being made to feel welcome and appreciated.

At the Venus Spa we were greeted by Ruth and Jane at the front desk and chatted about our visit last year and our subsequent travelogue in which they're both pictured.  As we expected would be the case, everything was perfectly organized for Sandra and Kristin to spend hours enjoying the various treatments they had selected beforehand and communicated to the spa.  For each, the first two sessions included the "4-Layer Facial" and the "Caribbean Hot Stone" massage.  A lunch break was to ensue and then the final treatment was the "Sea Spa Pedicure."

After Sandra and Kristin, each smiling with anticipation, had been escorted to the treatment rooms, Ed talked at length with the new director, Betty Jane Greico-Bruce.   Lovely, charming woman.  Betty Jane previously was associated with the Ritz Carlton in Naples, Florida before being enticed to CuisinArt where she definitely brings a high degree of professionalism, expertise and creativity to bear on her new responsibilities.  In that respect, in our opinion, she is well along in taking the Venus Spa experience to an even higher level.  It was fascinating, for example, hearing about her efforts in conjunction with CuisinArt's hydroponics garden manager to develop and make available specially prepared lotions which are vegetable and herbal based.

Subsequently, Ed and Marc parked themselves by the pool, soaked up the beautiful sights and used the opportunity to catch up on various things.  A slight shower necessitated a retreat to the covered veranda area of the main building which is furnished with tables and very comfortable couches, and still affords an excellent view across the pool and the grounds.  Once the drops of liquid sunshine had passed, Ed took Marc to see various points of interest including the penthouse balconies on the upper level of the main building and the hidden wedding gazebo for a great panoramic view of Rendezvous Bay and the entire CuisinArt beachfront.  As they walked, Marc provided commentary about the shrubs and trees, identifying each and noting specific characteristics - his horticultural knowledge is quite impressive.

Around 1:00pm Ed and Marc returned to the Venus Spa to collect the girls for lunch.  Sandra and Kristin came floating down the main stairway from the upper level as if they were on a cloud and each had a dreamy look on her face.  Can we say "super relaxed"?!

At Café Mediterraneo Derrick and Wayne took excellent care of us and there was lots of laughter as we joked back and forth with them.  Kristin thought her before lunch Mimosas were totally outstanding and we certainly could find no fault with our Coors Lights, other than the contents seemed to have a marked propensity to evaporate too quickly.  After studying the menu and hearing about the "specials" we encouraged Marc and Kristin to order the Anguilla Crayfish appetizer which we too were having.  Although more than willing to give it a try, Marc was extremely skeptical that it was a unique type of crustacean and was even more so when the dishes were presented.  He was convinced it had to be an immature lobster until he actually sampled it and realized otherwise.  Definitely unique and absolutely wonderful. For entrees, Ed had the curried chicken special and Sandra the hydroponics salad with goat cheese.  Both were perfect.  Overall we would give the dining experience at Café Mediterraneo .  As we chatted, laughed and indulged ourselves we were having way too much fun - so much so we realized eventually that time was slipping away from us.  Derrick called the spa and adjusted the schedule for Sandra and Kristin to resume their indulgences there.

When the girls returned to the spa, Ed led Marc to CuisinArt's reception area and asked the staff to contact Rabin Ortiz, the General Manager, who he knew had been off island and had returned that morning.  Rabin soon presented himself and was as intense and yet as charming and friendly as ever.  There's something about this gentleman's persona we like a great deal and it's always a genuine pleasure to see him.  After Marc was introduced and a bit of conversation, Ed explained Marc's interest in seeing a typical suite layout and furnishings, and Rabin had one of the staff be our guide.

As related in some considerable detail in our Anguilla 2003 travelogue, the suites at CuisinArt are exceptionally nice in every respect - spacious, well appointed, tastefully furnished and decorated, and excellent views.  The one which was shown on the tour this year was the one bedroom suite - simply beautiful - no other word for it.  If the new luxury suites at Hotel L'Esplanade, for which Marc was gathering ideas, bear any resemblance to what he saw at CuisinArt, they certainly will be the finest on St. Martin.  We have to say that St. Martin currently just doesn't have the type of truly upscale, luxurious hotel accommodation such as is found at CuisinArt.

Meanwhile, Sandra and Kristin were enjoying what Ed called their "happy feet" experience, at the conclusion of which we all met in the reception area of the spa, bought one of the cute, tiny Venus Spa tank tops for Sandra, settled the account, tipped the staff generously and bid them farewell.  Then it was off to the Dune Preserve for more fun.

The Dune Preserve and Bankie Banx

Upon entering the bar area at the Dune we found two locals sitting there and inquired where Bankie was.  One spoke up saying he was asleep, was not to be bothered, and couldn't say when he might arise from his slumber.  Undeterred, Ed handed the fellow our personal card and with a big grin said "Go wake Bankie and just say Ed and Sandra are here."  He looked incredulously at Ed and said "Bankie won't like this."  Ed, still grinning, replied "Just do what I asked, please."  The fellow disappeared shaking his head and muttering to himself (we would guess something along the lines of "Crazy tourists!").  In less than a minute Bankie came rushing in, rubbing his eyes and saying "I was sound asleep and heard someone say something about Ed and Sandra, and I knew it had to be you guys."  There were lots of big hugs all around and kisses for Sandra.

Bankie then reposed himself on his favorite couch in the bar, Sandra curled up beside him, and we talked and talked and talked.  Wonderful to see him again.  After awhile Bankie played his new CD for us Chariots of Steel.  We liked it a lot - definitely one of his best.

We have a mutual friend, BullDog, who for years had the number one morning radio talk show on St. Martin and Bankie was eager to hear about our recent dinner with him and his wife, Nancy.  Bankie then proceeded to relate an extremely funny story about a concert he had done on St. Martin and BullDog's involvement with it.  We won't repeat it here, but it can be found in this section BullDog in the Evening of our St. Martin 2004 travelogue.

As Bankie talked about his then upcoming concerts in the U.S., he produced a pouch of his special tobacco (not ganja), heated a leaf over an open flame and then rolled it into a cigarette which he shared with Sandra.  She found it to be surprisingly mild and pleasant.  He continued by relating that this year's Moonsplash festival at the Dune Preserve had been another well attended success.  Invariably, our conversations touch on Bankie's inspirations for his music and his general philosophies, including his great love of nature.  He was very pleased to tell us about a turtle nest recently discovered nearby.  On the subject of philosophy, at one point he wryly grinned and mentioned a local friend who he considers to be "very thoughtful" and even more of a philosopher than himself.  To illustrate his point, he told us the friend recently asked him if he thought the island of Anguilla might break apart and sink into the ocean.  Bankie said he asked what prompted that question and why that might happen, to which his friend responded "I been thinkin' - the weight of all dem hotels pressin' on the land gonna make it break, mon."

During our visit a lady arrived and Bankie introduced her to us - Fabiana Liburd of Crocus Bay.  He told us she designed and made wraps he especially liked and wanted us to see them.  Fabiana obliged by briefly disappearing and then returning with one of them and proceeded to use Sandra as her model to demonstrate the versatility of the garment with regard to the various ways it could be worn.  Very creative and quite unique.  If you are going to be on Anguilla and would like to see them, Fabiana's company is called "Why Knot" and she can be reached by telephone at 264-772-7685 or email fabianaliburd@hotmail.com   After the show was completed and she had departed, Bankie shared with us that Fabiana is a former wife and he had a number of children by her.  Very nice lady.

We found Bankie was eager to share his latest creation with us - no, not a CD - his new house being constructed at the Dune.  It is totally fascinating and something that only someone with Bankie's creativity and love of natural things could have conceived and designed.  His guided tour revealed multiple levels with everything made from wood including much heavy oak.  There was no consequential metal about the structure to be seen - even the windows were hinged with wood dowels.  Hand carving was evident throughout and there was one very eclectic window design with colored glass bottles embedded.  The very top room is a small sleeping loft capturing fabulous breezes and equally fabulous views of Rendezvous Bay.  In the loft was a carved wood frame bed where Bankie already was sleeping even though the house was still under construction.  One of the dominating architectural features seen from the outside is a red pinnacle above the sleeping loft and on the inside it forms a mini-cathedral ceiling finished in natural wood.  We discovered it had been constructed from sections of two boat hulls joined together - only Bankie could think of something that unique.  Adjacent to the loft is a large open air wood deck and the inland view from there is of Babylon, as Bankie terms it (CuisinArt), and the area where the new golf course is being situated.  It truly is quite a view!

Back in the bar as we continued to talk and listen to CDs, Bankie mixed and treated us to his "Duneshine" as he affectionately and humorously calls it - his special rum based drink laced with ginger and god knows what all else!  It certainly gets one's attention - we never did master being able to consume a large shot all at once the way Bankie does.  Guess it takes some practice.

Bankie was extremely disappointed when he realized we were on Anguilla only for the day and that he couldn't persuade us to stay over with him - a great thought, but just too many other commitments awaited us on St. Martin.  He insisted we return for a future visit and that we be his guests for as long as we would like to stay on the island.  A very generous and very kind invitation - thanks, Bankie.  We never seem to have enough time with him and this visit was no exception.  We were startled when we realized it was nearly 6:00pm and knew we had to catch the 6:15 ferry.  With great haste and great regret we bid Bankie and the Dune Preserve adieu.

Return to St. Martin

Sandra and Kristin's happy feet were having to hustle as we zipped across the beach, up the steps by the Azure Bar and along the reflecting pools and on to the main entrance at CuisinArt where, fortunately, we found a waiting taxi.  We explained our dilemma and the driver assured us there would be "no problem", but we had to hurry.  And there was no problem as we hurtled along "roads" we'd never seen that seemed to be scraped from coral and hard earth, and covered with a red dust which wound through totally undeveloped countryside.  Needless to say, our driver was well tipped for successfully delivering us on time.

The return crossing was different and it wasn't just the higher departure fee of $3 and the ferry cost of $12 per person.  The boat was much smaller, the fumes from the engine entering the passenger compartment were on the strong side, there was no safety announcement and, no doubt, best of all the sea was calm.  We were four very weary, very relaxed and very happy travelers.  At the Marigot ferry dock we bid Marc and Kristin farewell for the day and made our way back to Hotel L'Esplanade.

There we showered and then indulged ourselves with foie gras with truffles, Barilla crackers and delicious cheeses, all the while listening to Bankie's Chariots of Steel and reflecting on this very wonderful day.

Conclusion

We find Anguilla a delightful destination whether that be for a stay at the magnificent CuisinArt or simply a daytrip to enjoy the beautiful pleasures of Shoal Bay East or to luxuriate at the Venus Spa and then enjoy the uniquely pleasurable and entertaining company of Bankie Banx as we did on this visit.  We do look forward to returning for future visits, reuniting with friends there and discovering more about what Anguilla has to offer.

                                                                                       With sincere regards,

                                                                                        Ed and Sandra                                                                                           EandS@carolina.rr.com